Djebel Chinos

SPECS PATTERN Inspired by a pair of vintage local-made French military M52 Khaki Chinos modified/cut in a “Sarouel” style (pleated front, cinched bottom leg) — probably tailor- made in North Africa in the mid 1950s for a Spahi or French Foreign legion NCO — combined with the construction of both early and late regulation M52 patterns. FABRIC Khaki “Katsuragi” Twill, 11.5 Oz., 100% cotton, milled in Japan. “Katsuragi” is a fancy weave (7×7 twisted threads) with a distinct 3×1 denim-like warp/weft thick twill pattern — very close to that of vintage French military chinos — and completely different from the tightly-woven sheen of vintage US Mils-Specs chino twills. DETAILS Pleated front. Ankle cinch band. Trapezoid beltloops. Single rear pocket. Indigo pincheck pocket bags. Button fly, “cat-eye” corozo wood. Chainstitch construction. SIZING/FIT Please review the size chart to find your perfect fit. CARE STORY French troops (including French Foreign Legion) stationed in the Algerian French protectorate from 1830 to 1962 adopted the style of a local garment in their uniform: the Sarouel (spellings differ), featuring a heavily-pleated front, with a baggy silhouette drastically-cinched around the ankle. Our more knickerbockers-influenced interpretation is based on a 1950s tailor-made pair of M52 khaki twill trousers, customized into a sarouel-type style. Probably made for a non-com officer at the time, considering the cost of custom tailoring. For the top block, our design combines early and late M52 patterns. The Arabic term djebel refers to North Africa Kabylie mountain ranges, where my Dad spent his 12 month-military service duty in 1956. Some family photos as previous blogpost illustration here and here. Anecdotally, this style/cut is reminiscent of Nikka-Zubbon aka Tobi trousers worn by construction workers and steeplejacks in Japan, to this day.