Bodie S S Gingham
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Index/Jeans/Mister Freedom/The Desperado Brush Coat Sulfur Dyed Denim
The Desperado Brush Coat Sulfur Dyed Denim
DESCRIPTION
- The "DESPERADO" Brush Coat is an original Mister Freedom® pattern inspired by traditional western-wear “Brush Jacket”, barn coats, and military utility jackets.
- For the fabric, we opted for the same fancy twill featured on our CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “Outlaw” and its matching RANCH BLOUSE: a premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combining a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), produced on traditional shuttle looms by vintage textile experts in Japan.
- SPECS
- PATTERN: An original Mister Freedom® twist on the traditional western-wear “Brush Jacket”, barn coats, and military utility jackets.
- Original 13 Oz.
- SC Black sulfur-dyed denim, selvedge, milled in Japan.
- SPECS:* Three front patch pocket, one inside chest pocket.* Tonal corduroy trimming for collar/pocket openings/cuffs.* Curved arcuate trims and bottom pocket pattern.* Metal button front closure, original Mister Freedom® mfsc cast silver tack buttons.* Unmarked copper rivets pocket reinforcement.* Split back featuring the fabric selvedge.* Selvedge button front panel folded facing.* All flat-felled seams chainstitch construction.* 100% cotton tonal stitching.* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.*
- SIZING/FIT
- CL's Advice: The DESPERADO is considered true-to-size.
- I opted for a 38 (Medium) for a comfortable fit (5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs).
- The 36 (Small) felt too tight for the silhouette I was going for, although I had opted for a 36 in the navy HBT Frogman jacket.
- As with all denim twills, minor back and forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities, and initial fit.
- CARE
- Treat this black sulfur-dyed denim twill as you would premium indigo-dyed denim.
- Wash sporadically, only when needed.
- Wash separately from light-colored garments.
- Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
- STORY
- Hot on the trail of the Californian “Outlaw” and Ranch Blouse, in matching black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, comes the Mister Freedom® DESPERADO Brush Coat.
- The pattern of this addition to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog was inspired by a blend of vague childhood memories of western-wear from screen characters, visuals from old Marlboro ads, and vintage duck canvas chore coats I’ve come across through my rag-picking years.
- After some detective work Texas Rangers-style, I realized that “South Texas Brush Jacket” is how this short and boxy unlined canvas coat style is often referred-to.
- A favorite amongst horsemen in thorny Brush Country terrain, the style became a staple piece of gear for Texas buckaroos and ranch hands, and was largely adopted by the gritty vaqueros from Northern Mexico such as the kineños, the OG cow-boys hired to work on King Ranch in the mid 1800s.
- Besides the signature cropped length of original Brush Jackets, one striking feature is the characteristic contrast corduroy trimming (collar, pocket openings and cuffs).
- It is said that the corduroy-lined collar was initially-intended to be easier on one’s sunburned neck…
- If the saddle length of the originals makes sense if your job description involves a horse, we figured we’d adapt the bolero-style cut to better serve the aesthetics of contemporary city dwellers, less likely to go roping stray cattle in the South Texas mesquite brush.
- The “cropped look” is an acquired taste, and not easy to pull-of for most.
- Because we didn’t have a vintage specimen in our archives for pattern inspiration, we decided to merge our military dungaree FROGMAN jacket A-line style with traditional western-wear brush jacket specifics.
- A scribbled Post-it®, a rough pocket prototype, and some notes from the MF® Design Dept (we didn’t even have photos of originals at the time) were all it took for our friend Fukutomi San at Toyo Enterprises to draft an original pattern.
- The DESPERADO was born.
- The keen eye will note that we added a slight curve to the arcuate on the corduroy pocket trimming, on the patch pocket bottom shape, and on the cuff piecing.
- This is in contrast with the common straight lines typical of purified utilitarian fashion, intended to be easier and faster to cut & sew.
- This subtle tweak, along with the single needle pocket construction adds an elegant early workwear touch to the jacket.
- For the fabric, we opted for the same fancy twill featured on our CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “Outlaw” and its matching RANCH BLOUSE: a premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combining a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), produced on traditional shuttle looms by vintage textile experts in Japan.
DÉTAILS
Marque
Mister Freedom
Catégorie
Jeans
Matière
Cotton
Origine
USA
Couleur
Black
Prix
$449.95$449.95
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Mister Freedom
$449.95$449.95
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